Eels became popular in Spain at the turn of the century when the Basques, at the forefront of Spanish cooking, made Angulas part of their cuisine and elevated them to culinary stardom. The Angulas' flavor is so subtle that it is sometimes difficult to identify as fish. Cooking is minimal. When preparing Angulas, simplicity is the rule. In the traditional Basque cooking style, olive oil is heated with sliced garlic and a piece of dried red chilly pepper in an earthenware casserole until the garlic turns golden. Without a moment's delay the Angulas are dipped into the oil and the dish is immediately removed from the heat. It is covered with a plate and brought sizzling to the table.